[ FIFTH AVENUE MAGAZINE | spring 2003 ]



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Make-up
Tools
Face
Pimples
Body






























HOT SPRING COLORS
What are some hot new make-up colors for spring?
M.A.C's new "Laven-Dah!" ($12.50) is a great new purple color. Also, "Piccidilly" by Urban Decay ($15) which is a powder blue color looks really awesome on brunettes and blondes. I really like "Boy Toy" from Too Faced ($13.50) for you pink ladies. Remember to add a little "After Glow" by Too Faced ($18.50) to give you that J. Lo glow. Another great spring color for a blush is a new M.A.C color called "Pinch O' Peach." This color looks great on every one for spring ($16). Right now pastels are really big so don't be afraid to pull out those old baby blue's and pretty pinks. -Courtney






MASCARA
Do those "special" mascaras really work? The ones that supposedly "curl" your lashes, or make them "thicker?"
As for those "special" mascaras I will begin with the lash curling formulas: if you have naturally lighter/thin hair (not just lashes I am talking about) then these may be better suited for you. They do not do an extreme curl but can open your eyes by "lifting" your lashes and giving them a slight curl. If your hair is thicker and especially naturally straighter, I suggest sticking to your favorite mascara and using an eyelash curler. And as for those "thickening" mascaras, it really has more to do with the brush at the end of the wand that comes with your mascara and how you apply it (# of coats). Curling your lashes prior to applying can also help. If you find a mascara wand you like, after you finish the product KEEP IT. Just make sure you wash it and sanitize it. You can then use it with your other mascara and be sure to sanitize after each use. Do not stick in one then another right after. You will be passing any bacteria from one tube to another. If you want LONG THICK lashes, I recommend Max Factor's "2000 Calorie" ($5.19). This is my favorite. My second recommendation is Wet N' Wild's "MegaLash Mash" ($1.99). Also applying a little eyeliner (referring to brown/black/nude and other natural colors) will give a thick lash effect. -Gloria





DARK COLORS & PALE SKIN
I'd like to start using dark eye liner/more mascara because i love how it looks, but i have pale skin and blonde hair and brown eyes. Any tips on dark colors/ways to apply it?
Here's what I do to get a darker more smokey look without looking to harsh. First use a dark brown eye shadow like Too Faced "Dirt Bag" ($13.50) and use this color in the crease and blend down the lid. For the brow bone area use, a lighter color like Urban Decay's "Polyester Bride" ($15). Then take a black eyeliner and line the inside of the eye. Now, you will take a Q-tip with the brown color on it and line the bottom of the eyes from corner to corner. Then take the clean side of the Q-tip and go back over the line to smoke it out. This is what I like to call the "Brittany Murphy" look. Finish this look with a black mascara. Quick Tip: Brush the inside of your lashes first and then the outside with your mascara. This helps to get rid of any loose eye shadow that may have fallen on your lashes during application. This also gives you a fuller lash look. This is one of my favorite looks for blondes. I hope you love it as much as I do! -Courtney





SMALL EYES
What are some easy ways to make small eyes look bigger?
This is another one that a lot of my clients want to know. First off, remember that darker makes smaller, and lighter makes bigger. That's why we ladies love to wear all black :) Try doing a brown or gray color in your crease and use a lighter off white or pearl color on your lid and brow bone area. Try Too Faced "George and Weezie" ($13.50) or Urban Decays "Polyester Bride" ($15). With an angled eye liner brush, use the same eye shadow color you used in your crease to line the outer corners of the eye. Don't go any further than half way down your bottom lashes. Quick tip: You can also buy a white eye liner that can be purchased at your local pharmacy or grocery store beauty section, and line the inside of your eyes with the white liner. This will really bring your eyes out more! -Courtney





DARK/LIGHT MAKE-UP
I know you're supposed to wear dark in the winter and light in the summer and the same goes for makeup. But since I'm broke and can't afford to buy all new make up colors just because the seasons changed, is there a way to make my dark/light makeup fit into every season?
Great question! I have heard this one over and over. A lighter brown color will go with any season. For winter, try lining your eyes on top and bottom to give you a darker more mysterious look. If you have small eyes try just lining the bottom of your eyes with a brown eye shadow. You will need to use an angled eye liner or brow brush to get this effect. Your cost for this type brush can be minimal and remember this is a small investment that will enhance your beauty. You can also use a Q-tip with a little eye shadow on it to give it a more smokey effect. Quick tip: When making your eyes darker it's better to stay subtle with the lips. Try a natural lip liner with a little clear gloss. For summer you can go with or without eyeliner, but if your that girl that can't live without her eyeliner, try just lining the bottom of the eye about half way. Use that same lip gloss from winter for your summer look as well. Shimmer bronze cheeks are a must for summer!  To get that J.Lo glow, try Too Faced "After Glow" ($18.50), you will love it!  By summer it will be time to treat yourself to a little splurge. Remember you are worth it! -Courtney





LONG LASTING FOUNDATION
I use a light foundation to cover up red blotches in my skin, but by the end of the day it's all gone. What products last the longest?
First, what are the red blotches from?  They could be caused by irritation or dryness.  I would recommend first trying to asses where the problem is coming from rather than just trying to cover it up.  If you really just need some good long lasting coverage that is going to keep your redness from showing through, foundation alone might not be your answer.  Always apply a moisturizer about 15 minutes before applying any make-up to your face (this creates a smooth canvas, and allows the make-up to adhere to the skin better!)  Then, I recommend applying a cream concealer in the same shade as your skin tone to the blotches in short dabbing motions (Clinique and Estee Lauder both make equally good ones), rather than spreading it on.  Then, apply a long lasting foundation such as Max Factor "FaceFinity" ($10.49), or Maybelline "Everfresh Day to Night liquid foundation" ($7.99) in the same shade as your natural skin tone (they can be purchased at your local drug store).  Both foundations have equal staying power and come in a wide variety of colors, great for all skin types.  Finally, apply a loose powder (I like Laura Mercer) to really set your work for a look that will look flawless from the moment you step out of the house, until you are ready to take it off at night!  Good Luck! -Nicole





LESS EXPENSIVE MAKE-UP
I am from the Dominican Republic, and my skin is medium brown. The only make up that seems to work well with my skin tone, is expensive products like MAC and Estee Lauder. Do you know of any cheaper make-up brands that have a variety of colors for my complexion?
I understand your dilemma in spending money that you really do not have. If you want a great line of cosmetics that I recommend even to myself, it is Posner!  The tones that you want is either "Nut Brown" or "Tender Tan." (both $4.39) I strongly recommend you using  a cleansing creme (ala: Noxzema) to cleanse your pores before applying any cosmetics. Also Make sure you  use just the pressed powder, the liquid can clog your pores. One last thing, remember to wash the make-up off before you go to bed so that your pores can breathe! -Folasade'





LINING YOUR EYE
Are you supposed to line your entire eye or just the bottom? Whenever I line my top eyelid, it looks so messed up! HELP!
Well, that all depends on what type of look you are going for. I do not recomend doing both at the same time unless you are going for a dramatic evening look. Right now, lining the top of the eye is really hot, so I say go for it no matter what time of day! For a  look that works well during the day as well as evening, I recommend using a powder to liquid formula with a brush in either brown, or soft black because it is the easiest to use and will last the longest. For a "non-messy" look, simply dip a dry eyeliner brush into the powder and hold the lid taught with one finger. Start the application with the other hand beginning in the center of the base of the top lashes. Then simply sweep the color diagonally toward the outer corner of the eye, creating a sexy yet simple look. By doing this you will also create the illusion of a more defined eye.  What is nice about the powder to liquid is that you can also take your look to an even higher level by simply dipping the brush in water before dipping it in the powder. This creates a more precise line that resembles more of a lquid liner look. This works well for a more dramatic effect.

M-A-C cosmetics makes a wonderful "Cake Eyeliner" ($11.50) in many shades and Estee Lauder makes an amazing eyelining brush ($15). It is almost foolproof!  Both are available at fine department stores. Happy lining!! -Nicole





LIP STICKS FOR HONEY SKIN
I am African American with a medium, honey skin tone. Kind of like Halle Berry. What lipsticks work best for me? I hate dark colors, and vibrant shades like red look horrible.Could you suggest some light shades to me? Thanks!
To answer your question honestly, I think a light shimmery earthtone gloss would do well, it can be used for both day and night. Covergirl has new earthtone shades in a gloss and u can also go to a beauty supply store and test out which color would look great on you. Best of Luck Girl! -Flosade'
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BLUSH BRUSHES
Should I use the brushes that come with my blush, or buy a certain kind? Any suggestions? The brushes that often come with my blush are hard & uncomfortable.
You can but I DO NOT recommend it. I recycle/throw them out. The best blush applicator for a powder blush is as follows:
(1a) You want to make sure the hairs on the brush are not cut striaght/flat across. A flat head would make the application too harsh and unnatural. Also (1b)  When you look at the brush you should not be able to see where the hairs are cut, it should appear rounded without being able to tell the cutting levels of the hairs (that choppy look).
(2) When you pull on the hairs none to a few (and I mean "few" as in 1-3) pull out. If too many come out it is not going to last!
(3) The hairs should be REAL hair not plastic/synthetic. They work best to apply a more natural look. Never blow dry your brushes, especially the synthetics, they will melt and no longer work.
(4) The handle length depends on your comfort. I recommend something with a 6 to 7 inch  (smaller hands can use a 5 inch) length handle, not including the hairs.This gives you a smoother application and balance with your hand motions.
(5) The prices can very. The best place to go is a professional beauty supply store. The better ones will range from $15 - $30.

You should wash your brush with shampoo and conditioner at least once they start to feel a bit stiff. Let them dry over night laying flat or suspended upside down (hairs pointing to floor). This happens from the oil from your face. -Gloria
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EXFOLIATOR
Do I have to use an exfoliator?
Do you have to brush your teeth? Of course! Though you may not need to exfoliate daily, you do need to remove the dead skin. How many times you use it a week and what product varies. Someone with oiler skin would do it daily to 3 times a week. As for someone with dry or mature skin can do it once a week and usually with a much milder product. And be sure to moisturize after, even if you have very oily skin. I would suggest for the oiler skin using a dab of Clean & Clear "Oil-Free Moisturizer" ($4.99). -Gloria
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OVERNIGHT PRODUCTS NOT WORKING
I have quite a bit of acne mainly around my cheeks and between my eyebrows and I was wondering if there is a natural way or some products that could clear these up quickly. I have tried a lot of products to put on my face overnight but are still there in the morning...
  Ok, I'm gonna let you in on a beauty secret that a lot of models use before photo shoots. This will not get rid of your blemishes but it will calm them down and take the red out. Go to the grocery store and buy a bottle of Visine. I know it sounds weird, but after all it really does "get the red out." Just take a wash cloth and soak it in the Visine then hold on the blemish for a few moments. Try it out, it will really hide the blemish. On a more permanent note, remember that even if you're really oily and are breaking out because of this reason it still doesn't mean you don't need a moisturizer. Sometimes our skin is so oily and breaking out that we think we need to dry it out to get rid of the acne. This is not good in all cases! Sometimes we dry our skin out too much which causes our skin to produce more oil, which results in more acne. So, remember to wash your face morning and night. Try Dermalogica's "Anti Bac Wash", don't forget your moisturizer Dermalogica "Oil Control Lotion", and your eye cream Dermalogica "Total Eye Care". For a great acne treatment also try Dermalogica's "Medicated Clearing Gel." This product is 2% salicylic acid and not only helps clear existing acne but also destroys bacteria. I hope this information helps. If you need more info on Dermalogica go to www.dermalogica.com. -Courtney





FAST-ACTING ZIT SOLUTIONS
The normal acne creams (like Clearasil) just don't work fast enough. What's a fast, effective way to get rid of zits?
 I understand your problem and identify with you.  There are a lot of "acne creams" on the market that claim to get rid of pimples overnight, but when you wake up in the morning, surprise!, their still there!  Some however, do do as they say.  I like Clean & Clear "Invisible Acne Medication" ($5.99) which can be applied at night and during the day as well.  It contains Salicylic Acid which is great at getting to the root of the pimple and killing the bacteria.  Neutrogena "On-The-Spot-Acne Patch" ($5.99) are round patches that are applied at bedtime.  The patches work because they offer continuous medication to the one area all night long.  My absolute favorite "pimple killer" however is a mask that has been in my family for generations!  Like the others listed above, you can buy it at your local pharmacy or drug store.  It is called Queen Helene "Mint Julep Masque" ($5.75).  All the women in my family (including myself)  swear by this mask.  It contains bacteria killing sulfur and calming zinc oxide.  Both are wonderful acne treatments because they also offer a calming effect to the skin.  The mask is great because you can either apply it to the entire face as a "mini-facial"  for fifteen minutes three times a week, or spot apply it to the pimple before going to bed.  (It dries so it won't leave your pillowcase covered with green goo.) All three suggestions are great at drying out pimples, it just depends whether you like a clear solution, a patch, or a mask (and all are under $10.00!).  Good luck! -Nicole





DARK SPOTS FROM PIMPLES
I have dark skin, and when my pimples heal, they leave dark spots. Do you know of any products that can get rid of them? Or at least cover them up?
I strongly recommend you do not use any lightening creme for it can do more harm than good...what you want to use is a cocoa butter based soap preferably "African Black Soap". If you can not find the soap in your area you can go to African Paradises website at http://africanparadise.cjb.net/ . If you want to cover them up I recommend a coverstick the tone of your skin and apply it with an applicator sponge, very cheap as well. You then apply it to the spots that are noticeable. You just want the skin tone to be even then applying a  translucent powder over the entire face very little to  give a finished look! -Folasade'
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DRY SKIN
I always get dry skin on my legs in the winter and no matter how much lotion i put on, they still stay dry and itchy. Is there a particular type of lotion i should get?
 I am so glad you asked this question!  As a sufferer of dry winter skin myself, I have tried everything and I finally found the answer! EXFOLIATE! EXFOLIATE! EXFOLIATE! Exfoliation aids in cell turnover therefore allowing for easier removal of dead skin cells on the surface.  Dry skin is caused by a number of things, and exfoliation along with a great body balm is one of the easiest ways to remedy it.  I have found three products that I absolutely adore and no money in the world could make me give them up!  All three are from a line called Fresh.  The first is a wonderful body scrub called "Brown Sugar Body Polish" ($58) (just the name makes me hungry!).  It is pure  brown sugar mixed with 5 amazing essential oils!   Use it in the shower daily and you will be amazed at the softness of your skin.  The next is called "Sugar Shea Butter" ($36) and it is a wonderful body balm that turns to an absorbable oil when applied to the skin.  Just apply it after your shower (which should not be very hot, or very long) and literally feel your skin transform.  It also smells great and leaves your skin with a sexy sheen!  The final one is called "Soy Body Cream" ($30).  This wonderfully scented body cream is great to use anytime of day for a revitalizing lift and has the added benefits of soy proteins, avocado oil and ginseng which all have amazing revitalizing qualities.  All products are available at Sephora stores nationwide, or can be purchased on line at www.sephora.com.  Have fun with your new, soft skin! -Nicole
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